Day 16 – Vegas baby Vegas!

This day is easy tos um up: We went shopping for most of the day, then returned to our hotels, went to watch the Blue Man Group (my Christmas present from Melanie)(a straight B, deductions for some less entertaining passages and the vomit scene) and then out to party over LV. Everything has a price tag but this place is fun. Definitely.

A word about Las Vegas: Most of what you see on the strip is an illusion, albeit a very nice and pleasant one (save for the constant dollar here dollar there tipping). Maybe I just like the place so much because everything fell in place so neatly and everything we needed was close by. Or because the strip is just the opposite of everything we have seen so far on this trip. In any case, Vegas was a nice experience.

Day 15 – Springdale, UT to Las Vegas, NV

Viva Las Vegas! Yeah, baby, yeah!

We started our short drive to Vegas right after a delicious breakfast. The drive is pure downhill and sometimes the trucks passing at more than 80mph are a little scary…

Anyways- Vegas. Arrived just in time for lunch which we had in one of those casino restaurants – nice preview of what was to happen the next two days.

After that we checked in at our hotels. Melanie and I have struck gold with our stay at the Venetian. This hotel is awesome and we commend it.

The casino atmosphere is quite distinct from German casinos. There are so many gambling machines (which also offer the games people could play at a table, but I guess you have to have something in place for everybody's preferences). And there are so many games I have never heard of before – no matter what, they will all yield handsome profits for the casinos. The casinos at the Venetian and the Wynn appear a little more upscale than others (the Bellagio tops all, I think).

We had dinner at the buffet restaurant at the Wynn and it was great. The most delicious food we had in days in a nice atmosphere.

 

 

Day 14 – Page to Springdale, UT

Ok, I need to stay more nights at the same spot. The constant packing and unpacking is a little nerve wrecking. Fortunately, Springdale will be our last one night stop before Phoenix.

Originally, we planned to visit Monument Valley this morning, but we all feel that we have had enough days in the car and now want to spend more time outside. The first miles I felt like Bill Murray in "Groundhog Day" because Melanie and I have been driving the road to Wahweap (a marina and hotel on the shores of Lake Powell) for I don't know how many times…

Passed through Kanab again (no, we did not stop at McDonald's) and arrived in Zion before noon. The drive from the East down the steep slopes is a sight to remember. And for the first time I got to drive one of the more exciting roads (for some funny reason, Melanie was always at the wheel when we hit such passages). Yeah.

After we had lunch (which took the cook forever to prepare…) Mel and I didn't feel like hiking along sandstone again so we rented some tubes to tube down Virgin River. – let me tell you, this puts your Gluteus Maximus at risk if you don't watch for rocks… I know what I am talking about. I mean it goes alright when you're floating feet first but once you start spinning this becomes a whole different game. And the river didn't have a lot of water. But we managed to survive (and Melanie beat me by a mile).

To fill the gap between tubing and dinner, we decided to take a bus into the park and hike for a while. Honestly: We did that and I remember some of the unbelievably high cliffs (the trailheads are all at the bottom of the valley so unlike other canyons you start to get a feel for this one from the bottom perspective), but I just felt a wee bit too tired to treasure this experience.

Dinner at the Spotted Dog Café was outstanding. Tomorrow we'll hit Las Vegas (maybe this was the reason why we were trying to preserve some energy).

 

Day 13 – Independence Day in Page, AZ

Hooray! My first Independence day in the USA – I was looking forward to the fireworks display. And I was not disappointed.

Started the day in very slow fashion. We slept in and decided that we wouldn't do anything but visiting Antelope Canyon, swim in Lake Powell and watch the fireworks.

Now I can say "mission accomplished".

1. Antelope Canyon: The Canyon is on Navajo land which means that anybody (who is not Navajo) has to pay USD6 for just entering the territory. We then decided to visit the lower canyon because it is only $20 (compared to $25 for the Upper Antelope Canyon) and because it is supposed to be less crowded. This place is marvelous. The canyon is about 3 feet wide and up to 90 feet deep. The light reflections on the sandstone are spectacular. Check out the photos. No words to describe it.
   
2. Swimming in Lake Powell is quite easily done. Drive to Antelope Point, park your SUV on an oversized parking lot which is dominated by oversized Tahoes, Escalades, Rams and Silverados, all with boat trailers of course – and feel like parking a matchbox car in a showroom. From there it is just a short 400 yards hike to the shore and then you have to master the last few steps bare foot (yes, it burns like 911 Buffalo Wing sauce). But the cool water is rewarding. So far so good. When Melanie and I got out, we were surrounded by a swarm of mosquitoes. Not funny. I had about 40 (!) sitting on my legs. Before I concluded counting I jumped back in (which Melanie did way before me). Lesson learned: Lake Powell is great for swimming, but not a place to bask in the sun.
   
3. We booked a cruise to see the fireworks from the lake. The cruise itself was a flop, but the fireworks were very impressive. They went for about 45 minutes (mind you, Page has 5,000 people) and were huge. Very nice.
   

So much for our chill out day!

Will be back soon!

Day 12 – Kanab to Page, Coyote Buttes

Hello once again,

this is another report from our trip through the Southwest.

I did tell you that last night wasn't the greatest of all, right? Guess what, the breakfast was even worse…

We stopped at McDonald's to get some McGriddles, Hash Browns and Orange juice. Does this sound crazy? Here's what happened: There were three employees and two customers (including me) in the McDonald's restaurant. Still I had to wait 5 minutes before I could place my order. The result: They informed me that they were out of hash browns and orange juice. On request they offered to have some coffee ready in the next 10 to 15 minutes. How great is that? I think that such a well stocked restaurant shouldn't open for breakfast. Period.

We got up very early today to arrive at Paria Ranger Station in time to join the lottery for Coyote Buttes North access permits. Only 20 people per day are admitted to this area which is known for its unique sandstone formations. There were 14 parties with 24 people at the lottery. 10 permits have already been given away over the internet (4 months in advance) so chances were not overly good. And so was the outcome. We didn't win. So what can you do? Reserve permits for Coyote Buttes South over the internet (3 months in advance) and have a backup plan.

Coyote Buttes South are spectacular sandstone formations of varying colors. They are very beautiful. Truly are. However, the road to CBS is anything but a smooth ride and the hike is strenuous (at least in July with temperatures in the low 90s and no shade whatsoever). But still, it's all worth it. We climbed the rocks for about 2 hours and have to thank our GPS unit because without that device we would still be looking for our car…

Arrived in Page @ Lake Powell late in the afternoon. Did some grocery shopping and had my first tray of hot Buffalo wings (YEAH!).

Michi: I bought some banana rum! Not quite as good as the Bahamas' rum, but we're getting closer!

Day 3 – Rawlins, WY through Grand Teton NP to West Yellowstone, MT

Got up on this very beautiful morning, grabbed some overly sweet breaky, filled the cars and off we went through beautifully green Wyoming. I have never really heard anything of this state before. I only knew that Buffalo Bill came from there and that Yellowstone NP is there. Not much more.

But the green hills and the vast extent of all the meadows is something I really liked. Moreover, the sky seems so close there. You feel like you could touch the clouds any time.

However, Wyoming seems a very boring place – the only pastime people seem to have there is to shoot at road signs. Some look like strainers. Strange. But with all the Buffalo herds gone for good I guess that's what keeps them afloat – and gives people a chance to reminisce about how the past must have been.

In the late afternoon we hit Grand Teton NP. The panorama is dominated by three alpine (and snow covered peaks), lakes and pine covered slopes. When we stopped at a lake I saw someone out there in a canoe. This reminded me of the canoe trip I did in Canada with Patrick in May 2005.

We left Grand Teton Park through the North exit and entered Yellowstone NP. The first hour of driving was (and I know I shouldn't say so, but it really felt that way) boring. You drive along a narrow road through a young pine tree forest. That's it. Nothing there to see.

When we passed by Old Faithful Geyser we figured we might as well stop there today because you never know. So we did that and had to wait for only 10 minutes to witness the geyser erupt. What a sight. I mean Lady Knox in Rotorua is ok, nothing wrong with it, but Old Faithful is just a little louder, higher and what not (in a way a little American).

Ok, here's my fave topic: Wildlife. We didn't see anything up to this point. Not funny. They post signs everywhere: "Watch for wildlife", "Animals crossing", "Elk crossing", "Ped Xing" (ok, saw many of those)… But at one point in time I thought that they might as well put up warning signs for UFO landings… But I was sooo wrong. On the last few miles on our way ot of the park we saw a number of bison (they are HUGE) and elk cows. So, today was a good day!

Day 2 – Denver to Rawlins, WY

Yeah, got up feeling good and healthy! The breakfast was outstanding! Fresh juice, waffles, and the best bagels I have had for quite some time. After breaky we had to do some shopping to set us up for the three week road trip.

At about 12:30 we walked from the hotel to Coor's Field to watch some hardball. Since there is no baseball in Germany, I always jump on the opportunity to watch some when I am in the US. Ok, so this was my first time at Coor's Field and it does not quite reach the standard set by Turner Field. We had good seats in the upper deck just behind home plate. But hey – why isn't there a roof? It was scorching that afternoon with temperatures in the high 90s and no roof? You gotta be kiddin' me. At least they have great lemonade (freshly made before your eyes) to make up for that. The game itself was remarkably unspectacular and I spent most the time explaining the game to Melanie and my parents.

After the game we walked back to the hotel, got our cars and headed back to the airport. Mum's suitcase had turned up and we had to pick it up. Also took the chance to exchange our Pontiac Torrent for a Toyota Highlander. Melanie and I kept our Rav4 (although I could have swapped that for a Trailblazer LT) – but we wanted an SUV with a little offroad appeal.

By the time my Mum had collected her suitcase and cashed the check the airline offered, it was 6:30 (and still lots of miles before us)…

Well, we then got on the interstate to Rawlins, WY but by the time we got to the Fort Collins area, we were so hungry that we had to make a stop. And we are so glad we did. We found a small restaurant on the main street of Fort Collins. They served Spanish food and it was a revelation. The best European style food I have ever had in the US.

Back on the Interstate we quickly reached Cheyenne, WY. It was dark already and then we turned on I-80 and our GPS unit just said "Stay on I-80 for 140 miles". Nice. At least the speed limit is 75mph, so that you actually get to cover some ground… Still we did not arrive until after midnight.

BTW: Rawlins' elevation is about 2300m and we had to cross a pass at nearly 3000m to get there…

Day 11 – Bryce Canyon to Kanab

The fact that I am writing these lines shows that I have survived – what a relief ;o)
What happened was that I have volunteered to go on a 3 hour ride through Red Canyon. For all of you who don’t know: I do not have any clue how to control a horse. I have tried horseback riding a few times but it I never got the hang of it. But since everybody else in here enjoys riding I felt compelled to join them and go on that ride.
The scenery in Red Canyon itself was nice, the cowboy like acting guides were a laugh and so was the ride itself. We raced through the valley at the incredible speed of – hold your breath – 2 miles per hour. That’s ridiculous. My grandma could have done that ride. So I am feeling a little sorry for the skilled riders, but for me it was just fine – I was able to enjoy the scenery and didn’t have to worry about the horse. Great.
After a tiny lunch we drove to Bryce Canyon and were awed by its beauty. The amphitheater is a standout natural feature and a sight we will remember. It was scorching again but that didn’t keep us from descending on the Navajo trail which leads to the bottom of the canyon. The walk is just 1.3 miles but includes a change of altitude of 521ft (160m). This walk makes you appreciate the beauty even more – check the photo section for proof.
After that exhausting hike we just got back into our SUVs and drove to Kanab, which is just an hour away. For the first time on this trip, we stayed at a typical US motel. And the homepage is an exaggeration unlike any other. They claim to have a centrally located pool – turns out it is more like a puddle on the parking lot. The room was about 100°F hot (38°C). But hey, it’s just one night and we’ll be fine…

Day #10 – Capitol Reef NP, Bryce Canyon NP

We left Moab behind and drove west to Bryce Canyon NP. We chose this route so that we could at least drive through Capitol Reef National Park and Grand Staircase Escalante National Monument. I have only read that these two were supposed to be magnificent. I have published the route in an internet forum about a month before our departure and some people got a little agitated because we didn’t include a stop in or close to either sight. With hindsight, I still believe that our decision was sensible, because we have seen so many stone formations and stone sculptures that no one of us felt that we should dedicate additional time to seeing stones…
Capitol Reef is alright to drive through. It offers one or two interesting hikes (which we didn’t do) but you can see almost everything from the car. The last bit of the designated scenic drive is a nice gravel road through narrow canyons – a really nice drive.
Other must sees in Capitol Reef are the Fruita school house and petroglyphs by Hopi Indians. The former was built in the early days of the 20th century to educate the children of Mormon farmers during the winter months. The building is tiny and it is hard to imagine that 28 children of all grades were educated there at the same time; the latter are animals and images of man which were etched into stone in the 15th century or later. The Fruita farmers had some fun with those petroglyphs and added some exotic animals like elephants and reindeer.
I was in the passenger seat when we entered Grand Staircase and I have to tell you: You really have to trust your driver when driving the steep roads and across ridges there. For instance, there is a road which runs on a ridge which is about 7m (yards) wide and on both sides slopes drop by about 100m (yards). There is no guardrail whatsoever.
In the evening we arrived at Ruby’s Inn at Bryce Canyon and hoped to see a Rodeo (the main reason why we hurried to get there). Unfortunately, there are no rodeos in Tuesday nights so we had to settle for an extended dinner and some TV…

Day #9 – Arches NP

This day was the most relaxing day in a while. We slept in, did some laundry and hiked up to Delicate Arch (the arch on most Utah license plates). The hike is not as nice as the hike to Double O Arch, but at 38°C , climbing up the slopes is quite a challenge. But well worth it!

On Day 10 we will drive to Bryce Canyon, Utah.

Day #8 cont‘d

Ok, ok, will continue to report on day 8:

We got up early in the morning to catch a first glimpse of Arches NP. We hiked (this is an exaggeration) to South and North Window (from both sides), then on to Double Arch. The latter walk took us about one hour, of which 20 minutes were "lost" due to the lack of proper signs in place. If anyone ever intends to do the same walk, confidently follow the restroom signs from the Window Arches to Double Arch – will save you some time.

After that it was time to head back to the hotel and to watch some TV (won't say more).

While the loss still sank in, we decided to hike to Double O Arch (the hike passes Landscape Arch). The hike takes about 80 minutes (one way) and with temperatures at 35°C and over, it is quite a strain. I have placed some photos in the photo section.

Oh, sorry, I am talking about arches constantly and did not offer any explanation about what they are: Arches in Arches NP are arches in red sandstone which formed when ice broke stone away. This process left behind a number of beautiful and impressive arches. The occurrence of such is rather rare and Arches NP requires you to hike for quite some time to see all the arches there are.

Day 9 is an "off-day" and we have no program planned (Yeah!)